We recently took a trip to the mountains of Taiwan to a small picnic area above the city of Sanxia. We got lucky, in terms of the weather , which is pretty unpredictable this time of year. The Plum Rains have started and we are seeing thunderstorms on an almost daily basis. But last Saturday was just about as perfect as weather can be. Temperatures were cool, but not cold. There was no rain, just a slight refreshing breeze. As an added bonus, because of the terrible weather for the last week, everyone stayed home, expecting the weather to repeat, so we had the place virtually to our selves. Only lifeguards were milling around. That doesn't happen often on a weekend in the Taiwanese mountains.
Other posts you may be interested in:
Taiwan Travelogue: Lala Shan la拉拉山
Taiwan Travelogue: The North Coast
Taiwan Travelogue: Driving to Hawaii
Photos: Elizabeth and Emily Banducci
Tuesday, May 13, 2014
Wednesday, April 23, 2014
Our book, The Taiwan Adventure: An Expat's Observations of Life in Taiwan is on sale at Amazon.com and other bookstores throughout the World. It's now out in the Kindle Version, so it has become quite accessible. You can purchase the book at this link. Today in a shameless plug I want to present and excerpt from the book: The Number 7 Cross Island Highway.
7.1 The Number 7 Cross Island Highway
|A Poppy Field in Daxi|
One interesting thing I've discovered is that the meaning of certain words is different in Taiwanese English than it is in English-English. Huh? What does that mean? Take the word Highway, for instance. We've driven the #7 Cross-Island Highway from Daxi Township all the way to Yilan. It starts out
as a beautiful highway. It’s wide with double yellow lines down the middle
and moves along easily at 60 km/h (38 mph). In essence it lives up to the
One minute we’re zipping along in beautiful mountain scenery. We
passed a huge field of orange poppies: Then the immaculately manicured
Chiang Kai Shek mausoleum. Then something happened to the road. The
highway was like a road with dual personalities…and suddenly the evil
personality showed up.
The complexion of the road changed. It narrowed a little, then a little
more. Then it began to snake through the forest and up the side of the
mountain; twisting and turning; even the switchbacks had switchbacks. Until
the Cross-Island Highway looked more like the Cross Island Goat track: And
then I’m sure I saw a goat refusing to get on the road.
|A remote temple in the mountains|
At times it felt like I was driving the car in the cartoons where the tires
on one side of the car stayed on the road and the others hung out over a
yawning abyss. Okay maybe I’m exaggerating here, but not much. Then the
road got really narrow and the sun began to set.
Then it got darker and darker. The conversation turned darker as well. It
was like driving through a horror movie. It got so dark that we couldn't see to
the trees on the side of the road. And then it got really dark. I thought it would
|A waterfall near the road before it went all Twilight Zone/Zombie Apocalypse on us.|
We had decided to drive over to Yilan. People have been telling me what
a wonderful place it was, so we thought we’d make it a day and drive the 7.
Because I hadn't been there before, I was watching the mileage signs; just
before dark we saw a sign that said 28 kilometers to Yilan. So we drove in the
same direction for at least 10 kilometers then we saw the next sign. Yilan 32
kilometers…wait…we were traveling in the right direction how did it get
farther away. Then I’m sure I saw him…In fact, I’m positive I saw Rod
Serling hitchhiking with a sign that said “The Twilight Zone.” Then it got
really, really dark; it got so dark that the boogieman had a night-light.
Eventually about an eon later we came out of the mountains and into a good-sized city.
We stopped for gas and a man gave us a road map so that we could find
an alternate route home. One of our friends had commented to us that we
shouldn't stop for anyone walking on the road. He said that many people had
reported seeing ghosts on the side of the highway waving to people. I just
passed it off as a legend. You know where I grew up we lived with the legend of
the “White Witch of Nortonville.”
This woman was apparently a nurse in the 1800s during an epidemic of
small pox in Northern California. Legend has it that she overturned her wagon
while trying to reach some sick child in a remote cabin in the hills near the
Somersville mines in Nortonville. Now she supposedly wanders the roads
around the cemetery she’s buried in. We would go out and visit Nortonville
looking for her but didn't really expect to find her.
Then, I saw a guy, standing there, I couldn't help but stare he was
completely pale, like he hadn't been outside in years. He had dark circles
around his eyes and walked with a shuffling gate, sort of dragging one leg
along. He had a double-bitted axe in one hand and chainsaw in the other. He
was headed for the mountains… on the road we just came down.
When he heard we’d just come out of the mountains he looked a little
peeved. He just muttered something that sounded like, “I knew I was late.” Iwonder what he meant by that…
Tuesday, April 15, 2014
|Buses at the Banciao train station|
One glaring difference between California and Taiwan is seen in the use of public transportation. In California, you see lots of empty buses, trains and rapid transit trains. The Amtrak commuter system is rarely used. Bus after bus passes by empty or with just a few seats being used. Californians rarely travel by train.
Of course, one reason that people rarely travel by train may be something like I experienced. I was traveling to Northern California from Riverside in Southern California. Because of the mountains near Bakersfield, there was a need to travel for a while by Amtrak bus. So as I went to board the bus with my luggage the driver told me I wasn’t allowed to travel with luggage. Yeah that works, if you have to stay the night somewhere, or are planning a stay for a while, I guess you have to wear all the clothes you might need.
In Taiwan however, buses are full to overflowing, the MRT stations are crowded, and the trains are a popular way to get around. It might be because the train system seamlessly connects with bus and MRT routes. There are two types of trains; local and express. They’re inexpensive, clean and pretty comfortable. A trip from Taoyuan to Taipei takes approximately 30 minutes. There are bus stops and MRT connections (In the MRT Service area) at every train station.
|The Easy Card: It is aptly named|
Because the buses and MRT are so frequent there is rarely more than a ten-minute wait, except during peak commute hours where buses are full. In those cases you may have wait for a while to get on a bus.
All of the train stations have a safe "waiting zone for female passengers at night." These are well-lighted areas with camera surveillance. The trains run until late at night and sitting in a poorly lit, nearly empty train station isn't particularly comfortable. The waiting area adds safety and comfort for female passengers.
Crowded trains mean that many people have to ride the train standing up in the aisle, so handy grab rings hang from the ceiling.
The photo above is the Banciao Train Station. In addition, to transportation services, there are shops, and restaurants in many of the large train stations. There is an entire shopping mall underneath the Taipei Main Station.
People line up at Banciao train station to catch the bus to almost anywhere they need to go. Buses run from here to almost every point in the city of Taipei.
This sign on the bus shows the different levels of accesibility available on the buses. All the trains station make some provision for access. There are elevators for going above or below the tracks to access different platforms. There are even people who will lift wheelchair bound people in and out of the train. One time a man wanted to carry me on his back out of the train, I declined however, for reasons of dignity.
The turnstiles at the Banciao MRT station are equipped for easy card access and you can see the turnstile at the far right accommodates wheelchairs. All MRT trains are designed to have the floors level with the platform for easy wheelchair access.
All Photos by Emily Banducci
Wednesday, March 26, 2014
In the typical Taiwanese fashion the trails are beautifully kept and easy to walk on. However, for a disabled person these trails present a problem because they are made with stairs and so are inaccessible to wheelchairs.
It is worth a visit, especially if you're into hiking and walking in a beautiful and tranquil environment. I would recommend that you do these walks on a weekday as the trail become very full on the weekends especially with the Winter turning into Spring.
I have embedded a Google map to make it easier to find.
View Larger Map
Monday, March 3, 2014
There are a number of posts about traditions, history, food and even a section on living in Taiwan with disabilities. The book is full of lots of full-color pictures depicting Taiwan and it's people, culture and natural beauty. I've been living here about four an and half years, now and have adjusted to the differences between American Culture and Taiwanese Culture. I would encourage you to go to Amazon.com and purchase your copy of The Taiwan Adventure: An Expat's Observations of life in Taiwan. (The title is a link to Amazon.com's Chris Banducci page) If you're planning a move to Taiwan grab a copy of this book to give you a "heads up" about what to expect.
Look at some of the reviews the book has received:
I really enjoyed reading this book. It's informative, funny and very easy to read. I learned a lot about Taiwan, its complex history, customs and what it's like to be an American expat living in that country. I loved the section about food and the author's willingness to try different kinds of foods which may not always appeal to American tastes.
Taiwanese traditions such as the selling and brewing of tea, ghost month, the lunar calendar and other traditions are explained. There is a chapter on Disability in Taiwan which would be very helpful to anyone who wants to travel and has mobility issues. The author needs to use a wheelchair most of the time but it has not kept him from doing a lot of sightseeing in the country.
There are lots of tips on how to adjust to this particular culture and it seems the author and his family have done that very well.
I hope there is a sequel to this book. I'd be interested in how the author's teenage daughters adjusted to living in the country and how they perceive Taiwanese teen-agers. (sic)
(Taken from the Amazon.com website)
I will post some excerpts from the book over the next few weeks.
5.7 The Stink of Adventure
|Stinky Tofu at arm's length, which I think is safest.|
I debated what to call this article. I toyed around with the idea of calling it, Eating Around. But there was more to it than just eating in a lot of different places. It was kind of a culinary adventure, so to speak. Don’t get me wrong, it wasn’t really all that adventurous, well not for me anyway. I’ll try eating just about anything once, maybe twice depending on whether or not I got the full gastronomical sensation the first time. I’m not like my children who consider mushrooms on their Pizza to be the worst possible hardship. I don’t even want to think about their reaction to Anchovies.
But on to the adventure…My family left for a visit to America, I was to follow a week later. So, I was on my own. When living in the same house and sharing space with my wife, I am required to follow certain rules and
regulations, which are enforced for the good of my marriage. Aside from the
obvious marriage breakers, my wife enforces some fairly strict culinary
requirements. You may think that she’s thinking of my health, not allowing
me to eat high cholesterol or fatty foods, ensuring that I don’t become a
casualty to heart disease, cancer or diabetes. You might think that, but if you
did you would be wrong. Her concern revolves around something much more sensitive than those things, her concerns are olfactory.
Taiwanese people occasionally engage in what I like to call “Xtreme
Cooking.” This kitchen-based sport revolves around liberal uses of odoriferous
spices, herbs and other things. It may even make use of foods that in
themselves, have a high stench coefficient. These types of foods have been
included in the “illicit foods” list in our household. I have been told, on more
than one occasion, that if I come home with the scent of any of these
contraband food substances on my breath, in my skin or on my clothing that I will be sleeping folded into my desk chair, if I’m allowed into the house at all.
But for the moment, the storm troopers, er, uh…enforcement team was gone. So I did the only thing I could do, I immediately checked the “Summary of Forbidden Foods.” What should I do first…More Garlic snake? No, that’s too mundane. Do I need to make a trip through the night market, allowing my nose to guide me to the Xtreme Cooking experts? Completely unnecessary. A friend who had heard me speak wistfully of a food, which was at the top of that list, a sensitive person, who obviously cares for the real essence of manhood, solved the dilemma with two questions.
Two questions which speak directly to the core of mankind’s need of
adventure. Two questions which were shockingly simple. They weren’t
complex and requiring great thought. They weren’t like the question that
caused Charles Mallory, an early pioneer of Mt Everest, to hesitate and shyly answer, “Because it’s there.” No these were direct, to the point, there could only be one answer for each of these questions. The first, was a call to
adventure, it was framed, on the idea that the time was now…that opportunity may knock only once and then drift off to find someone who would answer more promptly. In other words there was an urgency to this question that could not be denied, “Did your wife leave for America, today.” I was tingling with expectation. The question that followed was so obvious that I was embarrassed not to have thought of it myself, “Do you want to try Stinky Tofu.” It was brilliant, I almost wept at the elegance of the idea.
|Chris Banducci, and his copy of The Taiwan Adventure|
Of course, I wanted to try it. Every time, my wife smelled it and wrinkled her nose and complained that the odor was the worst thing she had ever smelled, I had to wonder how something like that would taste. The smell was like a siren call to me. It tantalized, no less than the mermaids of old tantalized the men of the sea. Although, I will admit that as food it is entirely appropriate in its name. But perhaps, to an adventurer that was the allure.
After all, what caused men to climb the highest peaks in the world? No one, who has ever climbed a mountain, has ever been heard to exclaim, “I want to do it because it will be easy and I just love a nice, cozy tent.” No! The cold, the danger, the difficulty, those were the things that drew men to death zone of Everest. The danger and the discomfort were the draw. This is what makes an adventure, an adventure.
I was ready to throw aside the comfort foods, I cared not for the
delicately flavored tasty combinations; I had a hunger for adventure. There are two ways to prepare Stinky Tofu, I had only to choose one, and my friend like a trusty Sherpa guide, would get me there. What is Stinky Tofu? It’s Tofu with a twist. They take the soy bean curd, (that’s what Tofu is) and they ferment it. People in Asia do this with a number of foods. Kimchi is fermented cabbage. Thousand-year-old eggs are fermented eggs. Stinky Tofu is fermented soy bean curd.
They prepare it in two ways; they either steam it or deep-fry it. I have
heard, from more than one source, some of them were even Taiwanese, that,
steamed Stinky Tofu, tastes exactly like it smells. I’ve seen it, and it looks like it smells, as well. Hey, in food, even for me, presentation is important. So I opted for the deep fried type. The lust for adventure runs deep in my
family…but not that deep.
I found it to be surprisingly tasty. It was covered with a garlic sauce and topped with cabbage. I have spoken to a number of Taiwanese people about food. In fact, I talk to everyone about food. Most of the Taiwanese people I speak to name Stinky Tofu among their favorite foods. I met a bunch of seventh graders who claimed they liked Stinky Tofu better than ice cream.
This adventure didn’t end with just Stinky Tofu. It was an adventure of
monumental scope. We traveled throughout Taoyuan City stopping at a
number of food carts. These are little carts where people prepare food, right on the side of the road. These are the places where you can really get the taste of Taiwan.
I enjoyed Stinky Tofu, the forbidden fruit of Taiwan; well, forbidden in my house, anyway, but I think it’ll be a while before I eat it again. My wife isn’t planning on traveling again anytime soon.
Saturday, December 21, 2013
Monday, December 2, 2013
One of the things I've done every year is list all of the Taiwanese holidays. 2014 is the Year of the Horse. Most of Taiwan’s traditional holidays are marked through the use of the Lunar Calendar. Modern Holidays are marked through the Solar Calendar. Let’s take a look at the Taiwanese Holidays:
Chinese NewYear: 春節Lunar Date is January 1. (January 31, 2014) This is the most important holiday of the year. It is celebrated much the same way that Christmas is celebrated in the west. Families gather for 3-15 days. Traditional meals are served on Chinese New Year’s Eve. People are given gifts of “Hong Bao” 紅包 These are gifts of money in a red envelope that are a wish of prosperity for the recipient.
The LanternFestival: 元宵節 Lunar date is January 15. (February 14, 2014) This is the first day that a full moon can be seen in the New Year. People celebrate by lighting and launching sky lanterns. There are also huge venues where people go to see artistically made lanterns and watch them launched. People often write prayers and wishes on the side of the lanterns before they are released. The traditional food for the Lantern festival is the tangyuan 湯圓 (soup circle.) These are balls of gooey, sweet rice gluten.
Qingming Festival: 清明節 Solar Holiday: April 5, 2014. During the Qingming Festival families gather to sweep the tombs of departed ancestors. It is a day to honor the dead. Many people use this day to burn incense and worship their ancestors.
Dragon BoatFestival: 端午節 Lunar date is May 5. (June 2, 2014) This festival honors Chinese Poet Qu Yuan. It is celebrated with the racing of the dragon boats. People eat a special sticky rice pyramid called a zongzi.
Night of Sevens: 七夕 Lunar date is July 7. (August 2, 2014) This holiday celebrates the legendary love of Niulang and Zhinu. According to legend they are forever separated, but are allowed to unite on July 7. The Taiwanese view this as a romantic night celebrated much like Valentine’s Day in the west. It is sometimes called Double Seven.
Ghost Festival: 中元節 Lunar date is July 15. (August 10, 2014) The festival honors the departed ancestors. People commemorate this day by placing offerings of incense, food and beverages outside their homes and the burning of spirit money for the family members who have departed the world. This is the most important date of Ghost Month (The whole month of July on the lunar calendar. July 27 – August 24, 2014)
Mid-Autumn Moon Festival: 中秋節 Lunar date is August 15. (September 8, 2014) This is the day when most people get together with friends and family and barbeque. Look for an in-depth post on the Moon Festival in September. A gift is given to friends and family of moon cakes. Circular cakes made with egg yolks and other things inside. The shape represents the moon and the cakes themselves are good wishes for the recipient.
Double Ninth Festival: 重陽節 Lunar Date is September 9. (October 2, 2014) People usually celebrate this holiday by climbing mountains or visiting flower shows.
Xia Yuan Festival: 下元節 Lunar date is October 15. (November 17, 2014) During this festival people pray to the water god for a peaceful year.
Winter Solstice: 冬至 Solar Holiday (December 21, 2014). This corresponds to the Winter Solstice in Western Countries. Families gather to celebrate on this day.
One final note is that the Chinese Zodiac is broken down into 12 years. Each year corresponds to a particular animal. It is believed that people born in a particular year will share the traits of the animal mentioned. The following is a breakdown of the Zodiac and the corresponding years from 1924 through 2031. See if you can find yours.
Rat 1924 1936 1948 1960 1972 1984 1996 2008 2020
Ox 1925 1937 1949 1961 1973 1985 1997 2009 2021
Tiger 1926 1938 1950 1962 1974 1986 1998 2010 2022
Rabbit 1927 1939 1951 1963 1975 1987 1999 2011 2023
Dragon 1928 1940 1952 1964 1976 1988 2000 2012 2024
Snake 1929 1941 1953 1965 1977 1989 2001 2013 2025
Horse 1930 1942 1954 1966 1978 1990 2002 2014 2026
Sheep 1931 1943 1955 1967 1979 1991 2003 2015 2027
Monkey 1932 1944 1956 1968 1980 1992 2004 2016 2028
Rooster 1933 1945 1957 1969 1981 1993 2005 2017 2029
Dog 1934 1946 1958 1970 1982 1994 2006 2018 2030Boar 1935 1947 1959 1971 1983 1995 2007 2019 2031
Other posts you may be interested in:
Holiday names in yellow are links to in depth posts.