Storm Chasers: Driving into the Belly of the Beast

Typhoon Fanapi, Sunday Afternoon

We’d heard the news and didn’t quite know what to expect. Wind speeds estimated at 144 km/hr (90 mph) gusts up to 180 km/hr (112 mph). We were expecting big rain and high winds. The rain started Saturday night. We’d have blasts of rain then it would stop or rain lightly. The wind would occasionally gust, bet never really seemed to reach any kind of high speeds.

The mountainous spine of Taiwan seemed to take the brunt of the storm. A friend who lives in the mountains said trees were blowing over and the rain was falling. Because of the conditions his family stayed home. But Taoyuan City was a different story. We continued to do what we always do. People were having barbeques to celebrate the upcoming Moon Festival. They were riding scooters, in fact, life seemed pretty much the same as always, without much concern for the typhoon

The path of the Typhoon



It’s kind of interesting, I think, because when you hear about a hurricane about to hit Florida or somewhere in the U.S. people get evacuated, the freeways are jammed. It’s a big mess, but none of that happened here. Six thousand were evacuated from potential mudslide areas in Hualien but that was it. Maybe three thousand cars, that’s not even rush hour. Life in Taiwan, in the face of the typhoon, just continued to happen.

Where we live we didn’t experience anything except some rain, so Emily and I decided to be…Storm Chasers…

We had visions of taking the old Mondeo and driving right into the belly of the beast. We planned to face down danger and drive right down the throat of the storm. As they heard about it, people began throwing around words like: Intrepid: Courageous: Fearless: Stupid (Where’d that come from?). We armed ourselves with video and still photography equipment and headed for the mountains…In Search of Typhoon Fanapi.

Typhoon Fanapi has passed

We drove with the windows down, we wanted to feel the relentless power of the wind, we wanted to hear the full-throated roar of power. We drove all the way to ShihMen Reservoir, looking for roads that would take us from the sheltering embrace of the city and expose us to the savage battering of gale force winds. But, in the end we were disappointed. Fanapi, as far as we were concerned, was a flop. In fact, at one point we stopped to photograph a footbridge and the place was teeming with sightseers, tourists. Tourists…in a typhoon, who would have ever thought? We never found the wind, never saw the devastation; we had driven into the belly of the mouse.

Fanapi facts: As of September 20, Fanapi was being blamed for 75 minor injuries. There were three vehicle accident related deaths, but no deaths directly attributed to the typhoon as it crossed Taiwan. Damage was estimated at $3.87 Million USD.

source: typhoon images and maps http://www.cwb.gov.tw/

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Traveling With M13: The Sequel: Return to Toad Valley

A few months ago I featured a visit to a swimming area in the mountains above Taoyuan City, that I was given directions to, by M13 (Mordeth13). M13 is a vlogger that lives in Taiwan with a unique approach to vlogging. He does it on the back of a motorcycle and videos through his helmet. He recently started a touring company, here that he is calling," Two Wheeled Adventure Tours."  (http://hobbicide.com/M13Taiwan/). The man knows Taiwan and a lot of beautiful places in Taiwan, so if you’re in the market for a motorcycle or motorscooter tour, visit his website and book one. Okay so that was a shameless plug. I recently had an opportunity to meet him and found him a likable, and very funny guy, although sometimes his sense of humor is a little shocking.

Anyway, I didn’t write this just to plug his company. When I posted the trip to the swimming place, (May 2010; “Traveling with M13”) people commented that the place was beautiful and their surprise at the lack of people. The reason for that was that it was during the spring time and on a weekday, so people were at school and work.

We and two other families decided to revisit this place, called Toad Valley, and spend a Saturday during the summer. Things were a bit different, in

terms of the number of people at the place.

We left about 8:30 on Saturday morning and drove along surface streets to reach Toad Valley. It’s about a 45 minute drive from our house. We wound through the mountains and scenery arriving around 9:30. Already, there were a number of people at the river. We found a nice area under the canopy, and set up our barbeque. The kids immediately got down to business and got in the water and most of the adults sat around a talked.

As you can see, the place was somewhat more crowded than our first visit.  People were curious about us some asked where we were from:  Some sneaked a look at what we were grilling on the old BBQ:  Some of the younger guys were stealing looks at my daughters.  (That's just a bit too curious for my taste, so I gave them the old stink-eye.)

Then we fired up the barbeque and barbequed a number of things. As you might have guessed a Taiwanese barbeque is a little different from what Americans do back home. Menu items included: Whole squid, Chinese sweet Pork Sausage, Cheeseburgers, (that was our contribution), potato salad (also our contribution) and Shitake mushrooms.

I was talking with my friend Ken and he asked if Americans barbequed only on special days, as they do in Taiwan. Of course the answer to that, is that in Southern California during the summer, every day is a special day.

About 3:00 o’clock the clouds rolled in. By 3:15 we heard the first blast of thunder, by 3:30 we were packed and out of there as the storm pelted us with huge raindrops that seemed to be pretty close together. I couldn’t run between them, anyway. If you know me you know there’s two reasons why that isn’t possible. I’ll leave you to ponder what those reasons are…

One of the reasons we were popular

The other reason

Other posts you may be interested in:

Traveling With M13:  Finding Toad Valley

Traveling With M13:  Custom Scooters of Taiwan

Taiwanese Traditions: Ghost Month 2: Ghost Day

This parade wandered past our house, recently. Emily and I jumped on the scooter to follow the parade and get some footage. The parade was part of the Ghost Month festival. As I said in the last post the Ghost month takes place during the month of July (lunar Calendar.)

July 15th (lunar) is called Ghost day or the Ghost Festival. This is the day when hell and heaven are opened and the dead come back to the earth. It is a day of worship of the ancestors. The Ghost day parade was interesting because it had aspects to it that I hadn’t seen before.

There were a number of trucks that had racks of lanterns on them. The lanterns are used to direct the Ghosts so that they can find their ay back to their families. There were also a lot of paper houses those houses were sold to people to be burned as an offering their their ancestors. It will provide a home for them in the other world.

Throughout the parade route the vehicles would stop the lantern racks raised and fireworks were lit. The fire works were sometimes launched from moving trucks as the vehicles traveled the parade route. Fireworks are a form of worship and are often included in festival activities.

I don’t know what the story is of the singer at the end of the video. She is always featured in these “Temple Parades,” (including funerals). Sometimes she sings current popular Taiwanese pop songs and sometimes this kind of traditional Chinese song. The horns are an interesting traditional instrument. They sound like bagpipes but are small, recorder like horns. I think the sound is interesting.

Thanks to our companion video blog, Glimpses of Taiwan (www.taiwanglimpse.blogspot.com), for video footage. Glimpses of Taiwan features short (15 seconds to 1 minute) videos of day to day life in Taiwan. An abbreviated version of this video will be available there soon.




Other posts you may be interested in:

Taiwanese Traditions:  Ghost Month
Taiwanese Traditions: Walking the god

Taiwanese Traditions: Ghost Month

The Legend        

Ghost Month offering

Legend has it that the Ghost Festival comes from the "Legend of Mulian.” When Mulian was ten years old, he was appointed to be a monk by Kshitigarbha. A few years later, his mother died and was sent to the Hell because of the things she did in life such as beating monks and wasting food. When Mulian knew that his mother was suffering from the punishment of “hanging upside down” in the sixth level of the Hell, (Taiwanese religion says that there are 18 levels of Hell) he brought food to his mother. Mulian tried to feed his mother but the food turned into flame whenever it was close to her month. Mulian went to Sakyamuni for help. Sakyamuni told Mulian about her mother’s sins and told him that if he wanted to help his mother, he must prepare vegetable foods for all the spirits on the first day of the seventh month of the lunar calendar. Mulian did it and saved his mother from being a "hungry ghost."

A teenager burns money   

The seventh month of the lunar calendar is now called Ghost Month. During Ghost Month the gates of Hell are opened and the spirits are allowed a month of freedom in the living world. July 1st on the lunar calendar (In 2010, that was August 10th) is the start of Ghost month.

This is a time of honoring the ancestors. One way of honoring the ancestors ids to place food on a table outside your home. The food is there for the ancestors to eat so that they will visit. One thing I think is interesting to note is that the ancestors are not invited into the house. Businessmen also make offerings in front of their businesses for good luck. Many people in Taiwan fear the ghosts and are afraid that they will be cursed if they do not provide offerings for the ancestors during this time. The main days for offerings are the 1st, the 15th and the 30th of July (Lunar Calendar).

Ghost month is really a part of ancestor worship. In Taiwan it is believed that when you die you go to Hell. Hell is the place where you wait to be reincarnated. But the people also believe that while you are there you have the same needs as on earth. For example paper “money” is purchased at local stores or at the temple that is burned in an incinerator. It is believed that the smoke carries the essence of the money to the ancestors. You often see people out in front of their homes burning money, paper clothing and other things for their ancestors.

A woman with her food offering

They are taught beginning at a very young age to care for their ancestors, so you  see children helping their parents to burn these things. In addition to the burning of goods, fruit, food, even alcoholic beverages are offered to the ancestors, people burn incense and pray. The idea is to provide them with the things they enjoyed on earth.

It is very important to remember all of the ancestors so in many homes you will find a lineage posted somewhere in the house. A friend of mine has a lineage that goes back for 24 generations.

Other posts you may be interested in:

Taiwanese Traditions:  Ghost Month 2:  Ghost day
Random Asianess: Walking the god
Local Color:  The Temples of Taoyuan City

Taiwanese Tradition: 7/7 Valentines Day

Valentines day is celebrated on the seventh day of the seventh month on the Lunar Calendar. In 2010 that day (by the Solar Calendar) was August 16th. The Mandarin name for the holiday is Qing Ren Jie. (情人節 Passion person Festival.) There is an interesting legend that goes with Qing Ren Jie.


The legend goes like this:

The seven daughters of the Goddess of Heaven were visiting the earth. While there they stopped to bathe in a river. The noise of frolic caught the attention of a cowboy by the name of Niu Lang. Niu Lang thought it would be a great joke to hide the clothing of the seven daughters as they swam in the river.

When the daughters finished bathing they looked for their clothes and discovered that they were missing and that Niu Lang had hidden them. They chose the youngest and prettiest daughter, her name was Zhi Nu, to go to Niu Lang to ask him to return their clothing, which she did.

Niu Lang gave them back their clothing. However, during the exchange Niu Lang saw Zhi Nu naked. They fell in love and were married. Niu Lang and Zhi Nu were so happy that Zhi Nu neglected her work as a weaver. So the Goddess, in order to punish her called her back to heaven, and the couple was forced to separate. Niu Lang being a mortal cannot enter the heavenly realm, of the immortals.

But once a year the Goddess feels pity for the two lovers, so on the 7th night of 7th month, she allows them to be reunited. The legend says that magpies use their wings to form a bridge allowing Zhi Nu to cross over to be with Niu Lang.

As Americans in Taiwan, my family celebrated Valentines Day on February 14th as we usually do. But when we found about this we celebrated again last week. I thought that it was unusual that no one really was out buying gifts or flowers or anything. In fact, Brenda teased some of the husbands that they would be in the doghouse if they didn’t buy flowers for their wives. But as I read up on Qing Ren Jie I found out that gift-giving and cards are not associated with it. Instead Lovers sit and look at the star Vega, which represents Zhi Nu and the constellation Aquila which represents Niu Lang. Vega is found east of the Milky Way and Aquila is west of it. They are looking for the Bridge of Magpies, to reunite the lovers.

That’s romantic isn’t it, to sit together gazing at the stars and pondering this lovely little legend. And it’s cheaper than a dozen roses. I wonder…..nah, I’ll just do both next year, Roses and stargazing. The best of both traditions.

Other posts you may be interested in:

Taiwanese Traditions:  Lunar New Year: The Legend of Nian
Taiwanese Traditions:  Ghost Month
Taiwanese Traditions:  The Dragon Boat Festival

Random Asianess: Taiwanese Health Care

I recently had an opportunity to get a first hand look at the Taiwanese Health Care system. Taiwan’s health care is a national health care system. Because it is a national health care system there are flaws, but I think for the most part that it’s pretty well run. Of course, as I have said many times Taiwanese bureaucrats are not like US bureaucrats, they’re helpful, friendly, courteous, kind, and I suppose thrifty, brave clean and reverent; just like Boy Scouts…even the girls. As always they will go out of their way to help you to have a successful conclusion to your business with them.

Medical History:

For a 54-year-old man with Muscular Dystrophy I’m a pretty healthy guy. My doctor once told me that everyone who has had MD as long as I have is in a wheelchair…EVERYBODY. But I’m not. I walk around, well, not a lot if I can help it, but I’m not in a chair. For the most part I feel reasonably well. There are the aches and pains that come with being 54 and the occasional falls; there’s the tiredness from everything being a strain. But I’m usually pretty self-sufficient and get through life pretty well.

But Then…

Last week I started to feel a bit achy. You know how you feel just before you come down with the flu? I had aches in my shoulder, my elbow, my wrist, my ankles, my fingers and my toes. Then I started to feel a bit nauseous, so my diagnosis was “I’m getting the flu.”

Saturday, I just took it easy. I had to finish up my sermon in the morning but then I just slept off and on all day. I did notice that the pain in my wrist had begun to hurt severely and one of my elbows swelled up. Suddenly this didn’t seem like the flu any more.

Sunday morning I felt really bad. My wrist was unusable. I couldn’t put any weight on it. My wife had to dress me, because of the pain and weakness. I hadn’t slept more than one hour the night before.

But I “manned up” I pulled myself together and I got ready for church. When we got to the church I started doing the things I do. In the middle of setting up song service I started to faint.

I saw the black edges in my vision, lights started flashing and I felt really sick. I had to sit down because I knew I was going to pass out. After I sat down I noticed that I had sweated through my t-shirt and dress shirt.

Then the absolute worst possible thing happened, my Chinese Teacher, Yu Xiu, walked into the church. That’s not the bad part; Yu Xiu is a wonderful person. The bad part was she said “good morning, good morning.” She brought joy and happiness into the life of each person to whom she spoke. She has this way of making everyone smile, then she came to me, but instead of "Good morning," she said, “Oh my…what happened?

I’m Used to That

I’m used to that to a certain extent. I mean let’s be honest here…I’m a mug. You know, I’m not the best looking guy I’ve ever seen. I often get looks like the one pictured, when people see me. People often ask me about the train wreck, or if anyone else was hurt...I’m okay with that, now! But Yu Xiu is unfailingly polite, she rarely, if ever, utters a negative word. Even if she thought I looked like a derailment she wouldn’t mention it. So when she said, “Oh my…what happened?” I knew it had to be really, really bad. Only fear would cause Yu Xiu to comment on my looks.

For the first time in my career as a preacher I couldn’t go on. I knew I wouldn’t be able to finish the church service on my feet…or even conscious, so I had to stop. I went home to lay down.

There is a Good Part

There is a good part, because we saw a bit of discipleship in action. One of the men in the church rose up and preached a short Father’s Day message. He preached on how God is like our earthly father. He finished with an altar call and prayed for Fathers, and those who would like to be fathers. (Of course he insisted that those who wanted to be fathers, be married, already.) It was a great blessing. Another man showed a film in the evening. So even though I was unable to continue, the work of God continued on.

The Hospital

The next day I visited St Paul’s Hospital. I came without an appointment and sat to wait. There was a short wait, maybe one half-hour, and then a preliminary visit with the doctor. He examined the parts that hurt and talked to me. Then he sent me for an x-ray of my wrist. When I returned he examined the x-ray, and prescribed medicine to treat, of all things, Gout. I had Gout in my wrist, shoulder, elbow, ankles, fingers and toes. This is the most severe Gout attack I have ever suffered. But here’s the real deal. The Gout was brought on by dehydration. Because of the temperature and humidity, I had sweat a great deal, but I wasn’t feeling thirsty so I wasn’t drinking much water. As the water level in my body dropped, the level of uric acid by percentage increased and, voila, instant Gout.

The doctor, to battle this severe Gout flare-up prescribed Indomethacin and Colchicine, rest and a great deal of water to get my hydration back to normal. As a bonus the doctor spoke excellent English, having studied medicine in the US. The hospital visit cost exactly $544 NTD or $17.00 USD. All things considered I was very happy with my care in the Taiwanese Medical System. However, I have a new hydration plan. I will drink a Gatorade type daily and plenty of water. I had reduced the salt levels in my body and needed to replenish them. Even though it was a great experience, all things considered, I don't think I want to visit too often. Pass the water, please!

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Eating My Way Through Taiwan: Pot Lucks

Every Sunday afternoon we participate in a Pot Luck. Actually, they're fellowships for our church. We started them when we realized that relationships were only taking place between in one direction. Everyone in the church has a relationship with me and my family, but relationships between the people in the church not so much. People would come to church and leave right afterwards, they never got together outside of church. So we decided to use food as a way to gather people. It turned out to be a delicious and successful method. I will always opt to have food-related activities over almost any other kind. In Riverside we had pot lucks, also. They were exciting forays in to Mexican cuisine, by some of the best Mexican cooks I know. Now we are venturing into Taiwanese and Chinese specialties by some of the best Chinese cooks I know. So here is a look at last Sunday's menu:

These are the main dishes. On these platters you will see, clockwise from the top left: Sweet and Sour Fish, this is like Sweet and Sour Pork using white fish. I'm guessing it's Tilapia. Next is To Gan This is like To Fu but it has more consistancy and smoky flavor. Next is kelp. This one is marinated in a vinegarette. Then we have Xiao Long Bao, these are pork dumplings, pork mixed with herbs and spices and steamed in dough.

This is Squash in a nice sauce. It is quite flavorful. I've found, generally, that vegetables an fruits have much more taste here than in the US. I think it's because they are not grown on huge farms but small local farms. As when you grow them at home they have much more flavor than store-bought ones. Fruit and vegetables in Taiwan are excellent.

This is muchrooms, and shrimp with rice noodles. I can eat this over and over and not get enough. The noodles are interesting because they have a little snap to them when you bite them. They're not like Pasta that kind of melts in your mouth you really have to chew them. Awesome!


Cucumbers with a vinegarette dressing. It's served cold and is very refreshing. It gets hot and humid here and a nice cold moist vegetable like this is the answer to the heat wave.













Purple and white Dragon Fruit. Both served well chilled are very good. I've found the purple Dragon Fruit is the best flavor. The white one is kind of tasteless. They have the consistency of pears.

So there you have it. Quite a nice meal. Most of the food is homemade, but some people get food at the local restaurants. It is cheaper, many times, to buy food at a local restaurant then to try to make it yourself. Often, my whole family can eat a full meal for $240 NTD (about $7.00 USD). Our friend Helen, cooks different foods for us to try, and she is an excellent cook. Everyone looks to see what she's bringing to decide if they want to stay or not. I don't have to look, I know whatever she makes is going to be good.

I've read that over and I'm not much of a food critic. Critic implies that there will be a criticism. I never criticize food, I digest it.

Photo Credits: Emily & Elizabeth Banducci